Winter Dreams

It's cold, snowing, a real winter in NY.  It reminds me of my childhood back in the 70's, when the snowbanks were piled higher than the tops of our hats.  We were headed into a new ice age, or so the leading scientific consensus of the time stated.  I guess things change.  But one thing doesn't...

In the depths of winter, I always start dreaming of summer.  And with summer (in my mind) comes wind, water, and sailing.  I love to sail, and I love to look at sailboats.  Beauty, simplicity, form following function.  I think I love daydreaming about sailing just as much as the actual practice of sailing.  That's not true.... but it is close. 

To me, sailing is self-contained self sufficiency, a vehicle for adventure, and a traditional art-form.  I loved teaching sailing back in Oregon, mostly because the students questions drove me to research the origin of arcane terms and words, like Foc'sle (folk-sul).  But I also loved watching students change from awkward hamfists to wind sniffing artists.  Trimming sails, noses held high to the wind, steering a sharp course.

Anyway, I am dreaming of woodworking projects and polishing bronze and brass.  Maybe a new outboard for the dinghy.  Destiny (a Flicka class sloop) has a lot of teak, too.  You'd be amazed at how dingy teak gets, even when she is put away under cover for the summer.  And once she is back in the water, perhaps Elizabeth, Mo, and I can feed the rat by making some trips up the Hudson or down the river into NY Harbor and beyond... (and Elizabeth has a lot to learn about sailing!!)

"I'm in Love, I'm in Love and I don't care who knows it"

She says:

So folks it's been a while, far too long actually, and I've been meaning to write but things kept coming up, and honestly I was feeling a little sheepish about writing. After documenting all our adventures out west, our rock climbing feats, car camping escapades and walks through the wilderness, it felt so anti-climatic to tell you that we were headed back to the east coast to plop back into our old jobs. But much has happened since the last time I wrote and I figured it was only fair to bring you up to date on our goings on.

So a recap of our trip back east, After Seattle (our last entry), we made our way to Idaho to spend a day or two with Dougie (a fabulous friend of Jeffrey's.) As I said we were planning on staying for a day or two and after two days we drove to Dougie's office to say fairwell and be on our way, "But its must see TV tonight, you gotta stay, 30-Rock... it's new!" Dougie protested, he knew our new-found weakness for creature comforts and played right into them. We barely put up a fight... and then the rationale to stay just kept sounding better and better, "Well Friday we can't leave friday, we gotta have a night out on the town." Saturday we were too hung over to leave the couch which lead to a 30-Rock marathon, Sunday we were promised a delicious Pancake Diner Breakfast and Monday we were back to must see TV... It was hard, but after a week we peeled ourselves away.







We had a worldwind tour through, Utah and Arizona stopping at many national parks including, canyonlands, zion, brice and the northern rim of the grand canyon. (This part of the trip was crucial, since I'm an east coast girl I had visualized the west as the red rock canyonlands of Utah and I refused to go back east until I saw them. I was far from disappointed and it felt more like I was touring the terrian of Mars than the US of A. We made our way through Colorado, through the winding roads and snow capped Rocky's and spent a few days with Jeff's younger brother Craig and his girlfriend Laura (who just moved to Basalt, CO.) From the beautiful landscapes of CO we were on a mission to get back to Central New York for Halloween. But not before we visited with my friends Joe & Christy in Ohio, so after 30 hours of straight driving we arrived in Dayton, OH and got to meet Ms. Caroline Amato (Joe & Christy's beautiful new baby girl.)



Finally we arrived back in NY, greeted with open arms by Denise, we relaxed and enjoyed Jeff's mama's company... and I enjoyed the comforts of a modern kitchen with an oven and the makings for zucchini bread. For halloween I didn't have enough time to execute one of my favorite non-traditional costumes, but I was excited to finally be able to do a couples costume and so with insirpation from the local costume shop, Jeff and I went as Frankenstein and Frankenstien's bride. We tried to make Moby and mummy dog, but we wanted little to do with it, and Denise went as a flapper...



On our way down to my Mothers house on Long Island we stopped in White Plains for some apartment hunting, found a decent apartment that took dogs in an afternoon and headed to Sayville to see mama and all her animals. By mid Novemeber we were moved into our new apartment and back at work.

So we are back at Malcolm Pirnie our old company, long story short, Jeff got a call from his old boss somewhere back in September that they needed him back... and if there was anything he could do to entice him back please let him know. With our budget getting smaller and smaller and the cold months of winter looming, our minds were already drifting to what to do next... so the offer did have allure, after a few days HR called me to let me know if I was interested in coming back, they would be happy to have me. So if we wanted we could both get our old jobs back, and after much deliberation we decided, that we have big dreams, we know we can live cheaply, but if we want to continue to fulfill our dreams we were going to need jobs... and we liked Pirnie, they treated us well, and we enjoyed the culture of the workplace... and we didn't even need to interview or go through all the job application leg work. So it seemed like the thing to do.

Thanksgiving was spent with Jeff's older brother Jon & fam in New Hampshire and was filled with mouthwatering smells coming from the kitchen all weekend, an annual turkey bowl football game on Thanksgiving, trips to Portsmith and the local candlestick bowling alley, lots of scrabble, nights full of board games and I even badgered everyone into playing charades (which after some intial complaining everyone seemed to enjoy.)

As the holiday season sprang into full gear I was certainly sweept up in the holiday spirit. Since we were in Alaska last year, this is the first year Jeff got to see me in action. Christmas trees in every room, garland over every doorway & window, mistletoe, advent calanders, holiday songs and of course lots of baking.

Christmas was spent with my mother, we drove out to her house on Christmas eve and I was determined to get us all to midnight mass for the first time in years... and as we were getting ready to go, my eye's were misted from the emotions brought on by the good people of Bedford Falls as I watched the end of "It's a WonderfulLlife" and then... Jeffrey, right there in the guest room of my mothers house, got down on one knee and asked if I would be his wife. Obviously the mist in my eyes turned to full on tears and I clumsily put out my right hand insteand of my left and shook my head yes.

So we're Engaged! Yay! No we have no idea when the wedding will be... but of course it will be fabulous and our honeymoon... sounds like a good excuse for another adventure to me. *~

So I hope you all had a warm and loving hoilday season and I hope the new year finds you in good health and happiness. I don't know how often we'll be writting from here on out, as the blog was to document our adventures in the great outdoors... but we had fun writting while we were on sabatical and we hope you enjoyed reading out tidbits...

Till the next adventure, so long

Frisbee

Mo says:
I forgot how much I love frisbee! Momma bought me a new frisbee on the road, so now we play frisbee all the time. I like it best in the desert...the sand is soft and I can stomp on the frisbee after it lands. And when I get tired, I just take the frisbee into the bush and take a nap. Life is simple, and good!

A Quarter Century Old

She says:

I think at one time or another everyone imagines how they would act if they met their favorite famous person. I, of course, have imagined that when meeting said person I would be calm and collected, compliment them very casually but with heartfelt sincerity and then maybe woo them with my charm and convince them to join me for a spot of tea or a pint (depending on the temperament of the famous person)... that last part I never really saw myself going through with but I did love imagining that I could be so urbane.

I did not imagine that attending Stuart McLean’s Vinyl Cafe concert in Seattle, WA would give me the opportunity to actually meet someone I idolized. Nor did I imagine just how mortifying my actual interactions could be in comparison to my calm and collected fantasies. But first I would like to give you some background on the events at hand.


Originally, Jeffrey and I were to be working in Alaska until October 5th, returning back to the west coast only days before my 25th Birthday and coincidentally days before Stuart McLean, host of the Vinyl Cafe Radio Show on CBC radio (the Canadian and much better version of Garrison Keillor) would be hosting a concert in Seattle, WA only a short drive from Portland, OR (where our return flight was schedule to land.) I dropped hints with decreasing tact for about a month, doing everything besides making a huge poster telling Jeffrey to buy tickets and tape it to the toilet. After a month I was pretty certain Jeffrey had gotten the message loud and clear until on a drive home he asked,
“Hey, you know we get back to the lower 48 right before your birthday, is there anything you want to do?”
“You’re kidding, right? This is a set up?”
Jeff answered with a very blank stare, I couldn’t believe it, I had been so obvious, how could he have missed the signs, “You’re joking” I said once more in a hopeful voice before I exploded into a monologue about all the clues I have been dropping for the past month.

Well the hints didn’t work, however the rant did and the next day Jeffrey forwarded me a copy of the ticket order. I was going to see Stuart McLean for m 25th birthday! I was so excited.

And now that excitement has only been mounting since May, and since we left Alaska earlier than initially planned we have had to plan our entire Western tour around this concert, which has made it all the more exciting. Since I don’t receive Canadian Radio Stations regularly I download Stuart’s show weekly and listen by podcast.

I discovered Stuart while in high school, I had purchased a Christmas compilation CD and Stuart’s stories about Polly Andersen’s Christmas Party was the last track on the album. The story was heartwarming, comical and reminiscent of a lost time in American History. A time I dreamed of experiencing, a more wholesome time when family’s crammed together in living rooms around the country to listen to their favorite storytellers or huddle around to hear a presidential address or news from around the world. For some reason the radio era seems so much more romantic than the TV one, maybe because it fostered imagination and aloud its listeners to visualize the scenes described. Anyway, I am a notoriously bad story teller so the way Stuart’s words captivated me furthered my love of his stories and his fantastic storytelling ability.

It took quite a few years before I thought to look him up online, only to find he was a radio host in Canada and had a slew of stories on CD, a minor hint to my mother and for Christmas, I received all of his recorded work, (apparently my mother and I speak the same hinting language, be it a female or family thing)

I think of all the music and other auditory medium I listen to, Stuart might be my favorite and I dreamed of seeing him in concert, however since he was Canadian it was rare that he performed in the U.S., even rarer that he traveled to the Northeast. So when I realized that I was going to be out west when he was performing I was determined to go.

The concert was everything I dreamed it could be, complete with quaint stories that tickled my heart and funny bone. Stuart’s stories had me leaning forward on the edge of my seat, eager to hear the next line, but trying to preserve the bubbly feeling of seeing Stuart live. Stuart told stories of Dave (owner of the Vinyl Cafe) his wife Morley and their two kids Stephanie and Sam, read a story form the story exchange about a pastor being initiated into a new parish full of rugged fisherman. He shared bits of his own life story with us, interacted with the audience calling out children and the elderly to receive free CDs or his newest book. The concert also included multiple Canadian singers who were phenomenal! Two girls whose combined talents formed the likes of Dala, a piano player that cleverly combined classic composer favorites with popular tunes from modern times and a renowned Blues singer, whose grey hair, leather vest, cane and gravelly voice made you think that maybe this man didn’t just sing the blues, but he was the blues.

It was a wonderful evening and at the culmination of the concert I wasn’t disappointed it was over, because I was told Stuart always stays after the show to greet the fans and sign autographs. As I stood on the long line I kept trying to figure out what one-liner to say or how to act to give off that calm and collected air that I imagined. But Stuart has been such a big part of my life (especially this trip as I have really looked forward to listening to his podcast each week) part of me wanted to do something so he would remember me and I would not just be another dweeby fan. As I scrambled to come up with something, Jeff was slowly becoming convinced that I was actually crazy. I decided to have Stuart sign a specific chapter of the book instead of just in the front, and asking him to wish me a happy birthday via autograph would be enough distinction without being crazy and that I would rely on my charisma to do the rest.



Oh god, the butterflies were flying full speed in my stomach as the fans in front of me thanked Stuart and were on there way. “Oh dear, it’s show time” I thought, I sheepishly said hello; Stuart asked me my name as I hand him my book. “Elizabeth,” Jeff snaps a picture, “And what’s your name?” Stuart directed his question to Jeff, I interrupt, “Elizabeth” I realized my mistake, nervously laugh and then stayed awkwardly quiet while Jeff told Stuart just how much I liked him. My hands are sweating and after a quick posed picture, I grabbed my book and tried to discretely leave the theater so Stuart wouldn't realized just how overwhelmed I was by our meeting. I barely made it out the door before I start to cry and laugh hysterically. Jeff documented my failed attempt at being suave and as tears stream down my face I’m was disappointed by my dorky interactions but elated at what a wonderful evening it was.

If all this talk of Stuart has peaked your interest you can find more information about him and his show here:  http://www.cbc.ca/vinylcafe/

So my mother knows Jeffrey is treating me right: Jeff also took me out to a scrumptious dinner in Seattle, including Red wine and chocolate cake! Treated me to a very entertaining college football game between the UofO Ducks and the UCLA Bruins in Eugene the night before my Birthday AND woke me up with Balloons, breakfast in bed, (pancakes topped with singing candles) and finally a book about how to live a self sufficient life on a farm! (An idea I have been talking about this entire trip) So in short, my 25th Birthday was fabulous, thanks to my fantastic boyfriend! Yikes 25 years old I’m half way to 50! Ahhh!

Cheeseburger in Paradise

She says:
So since first strapping on the alpine harness at Smith Rock and climbing up the nubbiny routes on the welded tuff rock, i’ve climbed on Basalt Columns in Eugene, OR and Bishop, CA, and Granite cliffs and domes in Lake Tahoe and Yosemite National Park.

I have really grown to love to sport of rock climbing, the continual set of challenges and with each new skill set attained, a new set of challenges presents itself. Owen’s River Gorge is fabulous sport climbing, the gorge has relatively moderate temperatures (as long as you stay in the shade) and the routes a surprisingly steep and long. They allow for a great workout and a chance to exercise your problem solving skill as your muscles become fatigued. One of the benefits of Owen’s River Gorge is though it’s steep, the rock has surprisingly fantastic hand holds or jugs which make you feel like a rock star as you ascend the routes.


Up until this point Jeffrey has done all the leading, which means he ascends the rock first, clipping into the bolts or plugging in gear and then clipping in (on traditional routes). Lead climbing adds a whole dimension to climbing, as there is greater fall potential from a lead climb. Generally you lead a climb below your skill abilities so that you can safely place the protection gear needed, without being in a place where you become so strained physically or mentally that you might fall. Anyway, taking the step into the leading world was a step I was nervous about. It’s demands a level of comfort and confidence with climbing that I was not sure I had attained. But in order to continue to push myself and grow as a climber, I need to start to lead routes.



So I found a rather inviting looking 5.5 sport route to lead and after warming up seconding Jeff on a few trad and sport routes around the side of the arete, It’s time to take the step into the leading world. 5.5 routes are pretty easy climbing (thought, leading it does and additional challenges). I tie in to the sharp end of the rope feeling calm and confident in my abilities. During the climb I actively remind myself of the advice and techniques that Jeff has shown me, but more than anything I try to enjoy this new type of climbing. For your first lead, you should climb an easy enough route so you don’t have to think about the climbing and instead you can focus on the new tasks of clipping in properly and protecting the climb. I climb the route confidently, posing for victory shots as I reach the anchors. With the completion of my first lead my tummy starts to rumble for the victory dinner Jeff has promised... Big juicy cheeseburger & ice cold brewski here I come!


My friend Mandy has been reading this blog about our climbing adventures, and she was inspired to write a poem. Jeff and I were so moved that we wanted to share her beautifully written poem:

A Huge Smile

With a huge smile extending across the desert sky,
I hang from my fingertips and feel alive.
I have all that I could want,
And I risk everything for this moment, every chance I get.
The bigger the better,
The toughest the best.
I've seen but a fraction,
but could fill the voids in many minds,
with the images I have captured with my open eyes.
I have felt, seen, and connected with her,
Our Mother - most others have forgotten.
She is here with me waiting,
Her patience unmatched.
Who will join me in knowing,
How many are capable of surviving.
As I learn from our Mother,
As I harden outwardly and inwardly,
As I rise to the challenge,
I become that which I have always known I am:
A woman - capable, confident, compassionate...
Or some might just call me tough.

Bishop for all Seasons

She says:

As the sign says as you enter the city limits, “Bishop for all seasons.” The town has a short main street, peppered with outdoor gear shops, home furnishing stores and a few eateries and coffee shops. It's a town with a whole lot of character, and it seems to be rapping on the walls of my heart, hoping to be added to the long list of things I love about the west. With its easy access to outdoor activity and the charm of the small town, I’m in love. Jeffrey and I typically climb in the morning till we are fatigued and then head into Bishop proper for some internet surfing at the Looney Bean coffee shop. After we get our internet and caffeine fix we roam the streets of the small town, window shopping, as I mentally make a list of all the things we must experience before we leave this town. We stop into the local grocery to get to some fresh produce and indulge in a redbox movie rental for a $1.50 a night!!! Cheap entertainment, I love it!

One of the big highlights of Bishop for me is the Eric Schat’s Bakery. A bakery that looks like it was plucked from Epcot Center’s Holland section. There are figurines and plywood cutouts of bakers and Dutch woman with braids and wooden shoes. There is an old fashioned car outside decorated to the nines with advertisements for the bakery. The entire bakery looks like it was transported straight from Disney world, straight down to the stained glass windows and the woman who greets you with here lace hat on. Once in the store there is a bounty of bread that almost makes me fall over there are so many delicious looking options including an Eric Schat’s original, “Sheepherder bread” the only thing that can compete with the abundance of bread choices is the copious bakery selection, including apparently the award winning, best glazed doughnut in 1998! I can barely contain my excitement, I feel like I am floating around in store in a cloud of confectionary goodness. Jeff decides we should get a loaf of bread. I agree and secretly decide that we also need to sample a pastry... or two!!!! Come on this place is a baker’s dreamland. 

We decided on Rosemary sourdough bread and then I sneak over a purchase an apple fritter and pecan cinnamon roll. As we sit outside and partake in the confectionary and savory bread delight, I honest start to daydream about living here. Drugged up on sweet bakery treats I think of working in the bakery and mastering the varying baking techniques and with every day of heading straight to Owen’s River Gorge to get my climbing fix... I would be in heaven.... **sigh** it's good to dream.

Climbing Like a Warrior

he says:

Climbing is a physically demanding sport. We all wish we had stronger forearms, longer arms, and delicate footwork. Close to the ground or below an anchor, we’re all heroes.

Climbing is a psychologically demanding sport. We all wish we had nerves of steel, control of our fears, and trust in our pro(tection). Close to the ground or below an anchor, we’re still heroes.

While the physical aspect of climbing receives most of our attention, it is the other side that has captured my interest lately. We can train our physical systems: muscles; tendons; fingertips and toes; balance and flexibility. But what about our heads? How do you push your limits physically when our heads are telling us to be careful, cautious, and conservative?

A warrior seeks challenges not for easy wins, not to pump up his ego, and not for the admiration of others. A warrior climbs to learn about himself, to immerse himself in a challenge so complete that fundamental questions are revealed and answered definitively.

Challenge, Focus, Commit.

So we’re back at Smith Rock, and we are climbing harder than ever. My goal is to lead .10a trad this summer... that is, a traditionally protected (trad pro) 5.10a rated (hard) route. So, I’ve been leading a lot of 5.8 and 5.9 routes to gain strength and experience protecting routes and bouldering to build confidence in my ability to think through difficult sequences on climbs.

In addition, I need to coach Elizabeth as she gains confidence and skill. She is climbing so well, and I want to gradually increase her exposure to complicated climbs as she improves. I’m sure she will be able to 2nd the .10a’s I’m leading!

Lions Jaw 5.8 trad
Great crack route, good protection. The crux is a roof sequence about 80’ off the ground. It goes, and I enjoy watching Elizabeth work through the problem without any help or advice from me. She is so strong!

Out of Harm’s Way 5.8 trad/sport

Toys in the Attic 5.9 trad
A crack pitch that is characterized by pigeon shit and straw for the first 30’ feet, all of which makes the climbing slippery and the protection non-existent. After that, the route steepens to a committing overhung lie-back that ends at a roof, followed by a 10’ traverse in a finger crack. I protect the traverse and finish pumped and weary. Elizabeth finds difficulty and challenge at the roof, and discovers that my pro will prevent a serious fall. She also learns the importance of protecting traverses!

The Outsiders 5.9 sport
Ancylostoma 5.9 sport
Phoenix 5.10a sport
Light on the Path 5.10a sport
Hesitation Blues 5.10b sport
More or Lester 5.10c sport

New Testament 5.10a trad! (a potential first for me!)
After climbing several hard routes today, I spend 20 minutes at the base of this route assessing the climbing, the potential rests, and the pro. Even though I am a bit tired, I decide that today is the day. The climbing goes well, the protection is ok. The hand crack flares inward, making cam placements difficult... they can ‘walk’ into the crack, mushroom open, and fail if loaded (short story, they won’t hold a fall). After 70’ of climbing, I am starting to get pumped. Hands are not working as well as they should.

The route gets harder, steeper and more exposed. I sink two good chocks that settle my nerves and boost my confidence. Only ten feet to go, and my forearms are flooded! My hands will barely respond to my requests for finger locks and hand jams. I am hoping to lock joints into cracks, using my anatomy to hold me instead of coordinated muscle action. I down-climb about three feet and rest, shaking out my forearms one at a time as I eye the rest of the route. The final push. I climb the last steep section without placing additional pro, knowing that a fall will be arrested by the chocks below. I execute the final moves with what little hand strength I have left. I reach the anchors and clip. I am there.
A light rain is now falling, so I clean the route on the lower-off, and we pack up for the hike out.

What did I learn? Endurance is what keeps us alive between rests. Good pro allows us to manage fear and keep the mind focused on climbing. An honest assessment: I should have tackled this climb fresh. I was fatigued at the start, which made it more difficult than it should have been. I let my ego dictate the decision to climb New Testament, a 5.10 trad route, on this day... I am happy to have completed the route, but I have so much to learn.