Climbing Like a Warrior

he says:

Climbing is a physically demanding sport. We all wish we had stronger forearms, longer arms, and delicate footwork. Close to the ground or below an anchor, we’re all heroes.

Climbing is a psychologically demanding sport. We all wish we had nerves of steel, control of our fears, and trust in our pro(tection). Close to the ground or below an anchor, we’re still heroes.

While the physical aspect of climbing receives most of our attention, it is the other side that has captured my interest lately. We can train our physical systems: muscles; tendons; fingertips and toes; balance and flexibility. But what about our heads? How do you push your limits physically when our heads are telling us to be careful, cautious, and conservative?

A warrior seeks challenges not for easy wins, not to pump up his ego, and not for the admiration of others. A warrior climbs to learn about himself, to immerse himself in a challenge so complete that fundamental questions are revealed and answered definitively.

Challenge, Focus, Commit.

So we’re back at Smith Rock, and we are climbing harder than ever. My goal is to lead .10a trad this summer... that is, a traditionally protected (trad pro) 5.10a rated (hard) route. So, I’ve been leading a lot of 5.8 and 5.9 routes to gain strength and experience protecting routes and bouldering to build confidence in my ability to think through difficult sequences on climbs.

In addition, I need to coach Elizabeth as she gains confidence and skill. She is climbing so well, and I want to gradually increase her exposure to complicated climbs as she improves. I’m sure she will be able to 2nd the .10a’s I’m leading!

Lions Jaw 5.8 trad
Great crack route, good protection. The crux is a roof sequence about 80’ off the ground. It goes, and I enjoy watching Elizabeth work through the problem without any help or advice from me. She is so strong!

Out of Harm’s Way 5.8 trad/sport

Toys in the Attic 5.9 trad
A crack pitch that is characterized by pigeon shit and straw for the first 30’ feet, all of which makes the climbing slippery and the protection non-existent. After that, the route steepens to a committing overhung lie-back that ends at a roof, followed by a 10’ traverse in a finger crack. I protect the traverse and finish pumped and weary. Elizabeth finds difficulty and challenge at the roof, and discovers that my pro will prevent a serious fall. She also learns the importance of protecting traverses!

The Outsiders 5.9 sport
Ancylostoma 5.9 sport
Phoenix 5.10a sport
Light on the Path 5.10a sport
Hesitation Blues 5.10b sport
More or Lester 5.10c sport

New Testament 5.10a trad! (a potential first for me!)
After climbing several hard routes today, I spend 20 minutes at the base of this route assessing the climbing, the potential rests, and the pro. Even though I am a bit tired, I decide that today is the day. The climbing goes well, the protection is ok. The hand crack flares inward, making cam placements difficult... they can ‘walk’ into the crack, mushroom open, and fail if loaded (short story, they won’t hold a fall). After 70’ of climbing, I am starting to get pumped. Hands are not working as well as they should.

The route gets harder, steeper and more exposed. I sink two good chocks that settle my nerves and boost my confidence. Only ten feet to go, and my forearms are flooded! My hands will barely respond to my requests for finger locks and hand jams. I am hoping to lock joints into cracks, using my anatomy to hold me instead of coordinated muscle action. I down-climb about three feet and rest, shaking out my forearms one at a time as I eye the rest of the route. The final push. I climb the last steep section without placing additional pro, knowing that a fall will be arrested by the chocks below. I execute the final moves with what little hand strength I have left. I reach the anchors and clip. I am there.
A light rain is now falling, so I clean the route on the lower-off, and we pack up for the hike out.

What did I learn? Endurance is what keeps us alive between rests. Good pro allows us to manage fear and keep the mind focused on climbing. An honest assessment: I should have tackled this climb fresh. I was fatigued at the start, which made it more difficult than it should have been. I let my ego dictate the decision to climb New Testament, a 5.10 trad route, on this day... I am happy to have completed the route, but I have so much to learn.